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Essential skincare tips for your PMU — brought to you by Heal Facial Spa × Beauty & The Brow Babes.
Read This First
Your skincare routine just got a makeover.
Let's be real — your skincare routine is about to change forever. But don't worry, it's like anything new; you'll adjust and soon it'll feel like second nature!
First things first: say goodbye to your old routine and hello to a new one. You've invested good money into your PMU, so let's protect it! The more chemicals you slather on your face around your tattoo, the more likely you are to see it fade, turn weird colors (like gray, blue, or red), or lose its warmth. Think about it — you're putting chemicals on top of chemicals, and that's just asking for trouble.
Here's a quick science moment: the products we use on our face are designed to speed up cell turnover. And this isn't like a regular body tattoo that sits deep in the skin. PMU is closer to the surface — think of your skin as a cake. A body tattoo is at the bottom layer, and your PMU is between the icing and the top of the cake. That's why body tattoos last longer — we don't put anti-aging potions on our arms and legs, but we sure do on our faces!
So, what do you do? When it comes to washing and moisturizing, from the eyes down — it's all yours, do what you want! But above the eyes, you've got to be cautious. Personally, I have two cleansers. I use my anti-aging cleanser below my eyes, and a gentle one on my forehead. When I moisturize, I'm careful to keep it away from my brows, and if I do use my fancy skincare, I keep it at the very top of my forehead, far from my PMU and only 1–2 times a week.
And don't tell me, "But I don't put it ON my brows!" That's gotta change. Your skin is like a wick — it'll soak up whatever's nearby and pull it into the PMU area. The same goes for eyeliner! What you're putting on your eyelids can make your liner turn blue or gray faster. And while lips don't have pores, you still need to be mindful of what you're applying.
So grab your current products and let's start reading!!
What Is Aftercare?
Aftercare isn't just a few weeks.
Aftercare doesn't just mean the few weeks after your session; it means the care you give to your PMU forever. Proper aftercare ensures the longevity & vibrancy of your PMU brows.
Using facial products
It's important to understand that you must discontinue the use of most cleansing and moisturizing agents on the forehead region during the healing process.
Why? The skin acts like a wick, meaning that what you apply to your forehead will eventually reach your brows, even if you avoid the brow area. Think of it like dipping the edge of a paper into water — eventually, the entire paper gets wet.
While we don't expect you to neglect your forehead, being mindful of the products you use and wiping your brows afterward will protect your results. A good rule of thumb is to use most facial products from the eyes down and opt for something gentler on the forehead, like micellar water or a gentle cleanser without peptides, vitamin C, or hyaluronic acid.
Remember, even if you're avoiding direct contact with your eyebrows, they can still be affected. Taking these precautions will help ensure your brows stay in the best condition possible.
Do not apply any of your regular skincare products or soap to your forehead for 6–12 weeks after the appointment. Let the tattoo settle into the skin. Only use the products listed below.
For the duration of the service (about 12–16 weeks), you must discontinue products on your entire forehead — not just around the brows. After full healing, you still should not return to those old products on the forehead, brows, or lips. Use only items from the safe list. The use of non-approved products can cause PMU fading, and the artist is not responsible for that. This is YOUR investment — take care of it properly.
Ingredients to Avoid
The Big No-No List.
Avoid these ingredients as they may lighten pigment, pull pigment from accelerated cell turnover, act as accelerants to heal skin, or cause pigment to fade or turn blue / purple / gray / red. Take the time to read your product labels — these hide in everything, including foundation.
Retinol
Speeds up cell turnover — fades PMU fast.
Retinoids
Same family as retinol. All forms are a no.
Vitamin C
Brightening agent — lightens pigment over time.
Glycolic Acid
AHA — accelerates exfoliation and fading.
Lactic Acid
AHA — same problem as glycolic.
Mandelic Acid
AHA — gentler but still fades PMU.
Salicylic Acid
BHA — penetrates and disrupts pigment retention.
Chemical Exfoliants
Any AHA/BHA — accelerates pigment loss.
Enzymes
Exfoliate at the surface — same effect as acids.
Peptides
Cell-renewal signals — interfere with healing.
Hyaluronic Acid
Draws moisture and can pull pigment outward.
Niacinamide
Brightening — can shift or lighten pigment tone.
Ceramides
Barrier-repair agents that can alter pigment retention.
General tips for PMU care
- Avoid retinoids & retinols — they can cause fading of the PMU.
- Avoid exfoliants — AHAs, BHAs, & physical exfoliants can lead to premature fading.
- Avoid strong antiseptics — they can dry out & irritate the PMU.
- Use sunscreen daily — protect from sun exposure to prevent fading.
- Avoid products that claim lightening, tightening, brightening, rejuvenating, smoothing, firming, or acne reducing.
- Avoid lip repair masks & eye serums on the liner.
- Essential oils & witch hazel contain alcohol which can flake skin & damage pigment.
- Brightening plant-based products (pumpkin, lemon, cherry, blueberry, pomegranate, citrus, licorice, bearberry, willow bark) can lighten PMU.
- Snail mucin & Korean beauty products — if the ingredient list is unclear, avoid.
Watch for these claims
Products that are not safe for permanent makeup may also use terms like:
Brands to Avoid
Popular brands that often contain problematic actives. Some have gentle options — when in doubt, text us a photo of the label. Please be aware that just because a product isn't on this list doesn't mean it's safe to use. If you're unsure, look up the ingredients or ask AI: "Will any of these ingredients fade PMU?"
Safe Products for PMU
Safe cleansers.
During healing, stick to what we give you. Vanicream liquid cleanser is only after 12 weeks from the first session.
✓ Oatmeal & Aloe Bar Soap
The bar soap we give you at your appointment. Use for the next 12 weeks — wash 2x daily.
✓ Micellar Water
Gentle option for the forehead during healing (no peptides, vitamin C, or hyaluronic acid).
✓ Vanicream Liquid Cleanser
Sensitive-skin formula. Only after 12 weeks from your first session.
Safe Products for PMU
Safe moisturizers.
Safe cleansers & moisturizers: use after first session & touch-up as noted below.
✓ A&D or Aquaphor
During healing: apply a thin layer when dry. Keep PMU protected and moist.
✓ Vanicream Moisturizing Cream
Without hyaluronic acid — free of dyes, fragrance, lanolin & parabens. After first session & touch-up only. Use a SMALL amount and do not get it on the brows — the more you do, the more chance you have of losing pigment.
✓ Pure Aloe Vera Gel
No fragrances or alcohols. Gentle hydration when you need something lighter.
Safe Products for PMU
Safe SPF.
UV exposure is one of the fastest ways to fade PMU long-term. Wear SPF daily — but make sure it's one of these.
✓ Supergoop! Glow Stick
Broad-spectrum, designed for sensitive skin — The Brow Babes favorite.
✓ Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen SPF 40
Broad-spectrum and safe for PMU clients.
Good to Know
Safe products FAQs.
Why can't I use retinol?
Retinol and all retinoids significantly speed up skin cell turnover — which is exactly what fades PMU. Your permanent makeup sits much closer to the skin's surface than a body tattoo (think: between the icing and the top of a cake). Anything that accelerates cell turnover will push the pigment out faster. Avoid all retinol and retinoid products near your brows, eyeliner, and lips long-term.
Can I use Vitamin C?
No. Vitamin C is a brightening agent, and brightening agents lighten pigment — including your PMU. Even if a product feels gentle, if it contains Vitamin C (ascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid, or ascorbyl derivatives) it should stay away from your brow, liner, and lip area.
What sunscreen is safe?
Supergoop! is our go-to recommendation — their formulas are broad-spectrum and designed for sensitive skin without the actives that interfere with PMU. Avoid sunscreens with brightening agents, niacinamide, or vitamin C. Always check the ingredient list.
Can I use anti-aging products?
Most anti-aging products contain retinoids, peptides, or acids — all of which are on the no-no list. If a product claims to "firm, tighten, smooth, rejuvenate, or reduce signs of aging" near your face, check the ingredients carefully. Many popular brands that seem harmless (like RoC, No7, StriVectin) are on the avoid list for this reason.
Why do ingredients matter for PMU?
The skin on your face acts like a wick — what you apply to your forehead will eventually reach your brows, even if you're not applying it directly. PMU sits much shallower in the skin than body tattoos, making it much more vulnerable to product ingredients. That's why facial skincare can dramatically affect how your PMU heals, retains, and ages over time.
What if I accidentally use something I shouldn't?
Don't panic — one accidental use isn't going to destroy your PMU. Rinse the area gently with water and avoid using that product again near the treated area. If you notice your PMU fading faster than expected or changing color, text us a photo and we'll take a look.
Still Not Sure?
Send us a photo of the label.
If you're not sure whether a product is safe, text us a photo of the ingredient list and we'll let you know. We'd rather check than have you risk it.
For curated skincare recommendations & help with anti-aging, acne, or rosacea, contact Honey @ Heal Facial Spa by calling or texting 502-387-9303 · facialslouisville.com.